Krishna – Tracing the divine

 

Blazing in the afternoon sun, stood a temple away from the crowd, away from the noise…

The ‘chirebandi’ walls in blocks of age-old deccan basalt in darker black tones, the entrance facing the valley, the central pond of water dappled with sun rays and gusts of wind making rounds through the carved pillars and arches.


Kshetra’ Mahabaleshwar – the origin

The Krishna Mai temple at Mahabaleshwar has all the ingredients of becoming the temple of mystery. The temple belongs to Shankar as evident by a Shivlinga inside, but then why is it named after Krishna river?

Probably because, just a stone’s throw away stands another beautiful ancient temple in this sacred mountain top called ‘Kshetra Mahabaleshwar’ in Sahyadri ranges near Satara in Maharashtra .  This temple is abode of origin to not one but for five rivers. Standing at a height of 1353 meters from sea level, this sacred place has been buzzing with pilgrims for last 800 years at least, much before Mahabaleshwar became the much coveted hill station. 

Krishna, Venna, Koyana are the daughters of Sahyadri which flow down its eastern slope to flourish the lives of many in the mainland till they reach the blue expanse of Bay of Bengal. Savitri and Gayatri are the younger ones, choosing to flow on the western slope, taking a shortcut to meet the Arabian Sea as early as possible flowing rapidly through the narrow green strip of Konkan.

Wai – The Southern Kashi

Krishna, like elder sister navigates the treacherous mountain cliffs of Sahyadri patiently and reaches the adorning stone steps and ornate temples at Wai, waiting to welcome her. There are many cities and towns in rest of India who like to be labelled as ‘Dakshin Kashi’ highlighting their religious importance and boast a skyline decorated with multiple ‘shikhar’, Wai is also one of them.

Wai has a famous Dholya Ganpati or MahaGanpati temple (the big Ganesh). Floodwaters of Krishna sometimes reach the belly of this huge Ganesh idol. Opposite to the Ganesh temple is a calm temple of Kashi-Vishweshar, complete with Deepmal (stone structure for lighting multiple lamps) and a granite Nandi.

 Menavali, a few kilometers away has some of the most scenic ‘Ghat’ steps with beautiful temples forming the timeless backdrop. One of the temples also houses a huge bell, brought from Vasai Church by Chimaji Appa (brother of Bajirao Peshava First) when he conquered the Portuguese. Dhom, another temple town in the vicinity has Laxmi-Narasimha temple with its exquisite lotus shaped Nandi mandap. Now what is a Nandi doing in Narasimha temple? Well, there is an ornate Shiv temple in the premise and also a ‘Panchmukhi’ (five faced) shivling as well.

 The picturesque stone steps in Menavali , Dhom and Wai leading to the bank of river, called as ‘Ghat’ and temples thereof , date back to Maratha period( 1674-1818 AD)

 

This was the playground of King Shivaji in the game of warfare, where he defeated the Adilshahi army and its commander Afzal Khan in ‘Ganimi  Kava’. ‘Ganimi Kava’ is the method of combat developed by this pioneer of Hindu Swarajya, where small troops would penetrate enemy grounds and destroy as much as possible in quick turnaround, taking advantage of unpreparedness of enemy.

 Narasimha Wadi – in the shadow of ‘Guru’

Past Wai, river Krishna meanders through open spaces between offshoots of Sahyadri, carving its own valley, nourishing entire western Maharashtra, soaking the black soil and growing the green gold of sugarcane.

Several sacred confluences and crowded stone steps touching the waters, so many temple spires, gleaming in sunny summers! As Krishna starts her journey southwards, so many of her lost sisters come to meet her. Venna meets her at Sangam Mahuli, Koyana meets at Karad , the confluence is popularly known as Preeti Sangam , a confluence of love.  Varana and Panchganga merge with her near Sangali and Kolhapur before Krishna crosses the threshold of Maharashtra, her first home. Temple of Koteshwar at Gove and then Maratha era dome like pinnacles of Sangam Mahuli temples along with several other known and unknown abodes of Shiva, are part of this journey.

 


On one of the curvier turns rests the famous pilgrimage place of Narasimha Wadi.  This is an important place of worship for Datta sampradaya. Dutta sect is followed by worshippers of Dutta and his several human reincarnations over last few centuries. This place earlier known as Panch-Sagar due to confluence with Panchganga is blessed because the great Yogi, Narasimha Saraswati during the Chaturmas, has stayed here for all four months, and hence the name Narasimha wadi. This is also a place of goddess ‘Varahi’ and it one of the 64 shakti peeth across India .

Presence of Varahi Shakti, Amareshwar temple on the other bank of the river and chosen place of stay for Narasimha Saraswati and Tembe Swami, another revered Yogi from Datta worship sect are not mere coincidences. Nath and Dutt sects have close connections with Shakti worship, Yogini and their powers, and so does this place !

 Narasobachi Wadi, as known colloquially is also popular for removing ‘Bhootbadha’, a very common occurrence in whole of India. ‘Bhootbadha’  (being possessed by spirits) could be a medical condition, or could be an occult, paranormal phenomenon. This place for centuries has proved to destroy that evil spell from the affected people..

Every rainy season, Krishna river comes to meet the Dutta Paduka inside the temple, the whole ‘Ghat’ is awash, the river swollen, the blue mountain ranges at distance, fading in raindrops.. Narasimha wadi remains a magnet for people who come there at least once in a lifetime.

 Just ahead of the next turn is a beautiful surprise, a very ornate ancient temple of Kopeshwar with a stunning ‘Swarg Mandap’, a circular opening in the roof, looking up to a blue sky and balanced on several exquisitely carved pillars. Kopeshwar temple at Khidrapur is Yadav era memory, still standing erect and proud!

 Kudalsangam – Confluence of cultures

 Leaving Maharashtra and entering Karnataka, Krishna’s course is now slightly due east. Ghataprabha and Malaprabha bring the waters and sounds of ancient chants from almond sandstone temples carved on hills. The confluences of both these rivers, at Almatty and Kudalsangam respectively have created pilgrim places on these busy banks of Krishna.

Kudalsangam is one such important confluence where Basavanna, the founder of Lingayat sect ended his life journey. some 800 years back. Lingayats believe that Shiv is supreme, and they carry a shivlinga around their neck in their devotion. The Sangameshwar temple stands on the confluence of Krishna and Malaprabha commanding over this land of Veershaiv.

This is also the ancient Chalukya territory studded with beautiful temples of Badami, Mahakoot, Aihole and Pattadkal.  Krishna flowing through Bagalkot district nourishes a land where Jains worship Teerthankars and Lingayats bow down to Veerbhadra.

 


Ahead meets Bhima bringing in abundance, waters of central Maharashtra, and lingering memories of Vitthal chants from Pandharpur.

 Rajankolur -Stone Memoirs

Downstream, Krishna moves with caution through a rocky terrain with a history of millennia.

One can find several megalithic burials on the banks of Krishna in this stretch. Megalithic culture is the archaeological term for finds which are dated to 1000 BC. These finds are mostly burials, marked with different types of stone settings. Sometimes there are stones buried in a circle, sometimes a single stone slab atop couple of boulders, sometimes there is a single large stone piece protruding from the ground to mark the burials beneath. Archaeologists have discovered skeletons of people with iron artefacts such as utensils, swords etc and yes, sometimes horses too are buried along in these fascinating sites.

 Deccan plateau has been rich with several such megalithic burials found here and there. Rajankolur on the left bank of Krishna river in Northern Karnataka is one such megalithic burial site. The flat hard rocks of Gulbarga and Raichur are home to several stone burials built almost 3000 to 4000 years back. 

 Kuravpur – Islands of faith

Krishna riverbed in Telangana is spanned across rocky grounds, with huge boulders jutting out sometimes from the smooth waters. In this whole patch from Malaprabha confluence to Tungabhadra confluence, the river has at times branched out its stream and joined back again after a distance thus creating islands. Jaldurga, a strategically located fort, stands on the rocky edge of one such island providing fantastic views of river Krishna and valley of giant rocks.

 This fertile land with red soil and green treescape is also soaked in Dutta and Narsimha worship

Next such island is Kuravpur, one of the most celebrated ‘Teerth’ of Dutt Sampraday. This is supposed to be ‘Tapobhumi’ and ‘Karmabhumi’ of Shripad Vallabh, one of the first incarnation of Shri Dutta. Entrance to this sacred island is by crossing the river. There are few more such islands like Nargadde, Kurugadde, each of them now a temple town, housing the deity.

 Overall Krishna river bank has several sacred places revered by various sects such as Lingayat, Dutta and Jain. The Krishna waters have nurtured these Bhakti traditions with its ever flowing, steady stream of fulfilling waters.

 Alampur – Chalukya Legacy

 The mighty Tungbhadra river merges with Krishna river near the ancient town of Alampur. Home to several exquisite temples from Chalukyan era, Alampur is like a hidden diamond.

The Jogulamba temple is one of the ‘Shakti-peeth’, where Sati’s upper teeth fell on the ground during the divine Tandav by her distraught husband Shiv on the demise of his beloved wife. Navabrahma temple is a cluster of 9 temples dedicated to Brahmadev. Built as early as 700 AD, these fine pieces of Chalukyan architecture reflect distinct ‘Nagar’ style of temple building with its high rise shikhar and sculpted walls. Papanasi Temple is another temple cluster in the vicinity with 20+ temples in the premise.

Meeting with Tungbhadra bringing along stories of mighty Vijayanagar empire, prepares Krishna River to take a plunge in the dense forest of Nallamala.

 Shreeshailam – Lord of Mountains

 The river forces ahead, finding its way through treacherous mountains and deep tree cover, with a longing to meet the lord of this land, Mallikarjun at Shreeshailam. This is one of the 12 jyortilinga and a place for another ‘Shakti-peeth’, with presence of goddess ‘Bhramaramba’. The river flows in the deep valley, accompanied by granite rocks gleaming in bright southern sun, taking in the green shadow of overgrown trees, touching the feet of Shiva and taking his blessings for her final destination, now not too far away.

 

Nallamala mountain range is age old reserve of forest beauty crowned with presence of mighty tigers.  This forest also became home to forts and cities settled by ancient kings. A thin reference in Gazette points to a ruined city by Chandragupta Maurya in these mountains. Pratap Rudra, the Kakatiya king is also attributed to some forts overlooking Krishna river in this enchanted land. The mountain ranges are home to several rock shelters and caves which further developed into temples and places of worship. Ancient Indian mind would find presence of divine in all such places of natural magic. Same is true with Akka Maahdevi and other such cave temples, where the devotees venture to find the divine within the stone walls and near a stream of water, adorning it with flower petals and a flickering but strong flame of devotion.

Amaravathi – Paradise Lost

Out from the loving embrace of Nallmala, Krishna river embarks on a northward path, creating a huge reservoir of Nagarjun Sagar and getting the waters of Dindi and later Musi. The river swells ahead, till it reaches Amaravathi.

On the southern bank of Krishna river stands ‘Dharanikota’, known as ‘Dhanyakakat’ in ancient times. Also knows as  ‘Amaravathi’ of Satvahan era, this town has been in existence for at least   2000 years as evident from inscriptions and monuments found in the area.   This was a buzzing place in mighty Satvahan empire, which spanned from Maharashtra till the eastern seaboard and ruled for 300-500 years. A huge Buddhist stupa with elaborate carvings in marble stood at this place. But the passage of time pulled a blanket of dust and oblivion on the great heritage of the place, only to be discovered in British era. Most of the sculptures now reside in British museum in Amaravathi gallery.

But now, rekindling its past glory, this ancient place of Buddhist worship, dotted with Stupa and Vihara is now designated to be the capital of Andhra Pradesh.

 We are almost at Vijaywada, the  threshold from where the river Krishna will cross into the world of open sea, the PoorvaPayodhi … the eastern sea, Bay of Bengal. The bridge on Krishna river provides a glimpse into the might and width of Krishna rivers water power. The ancient hill overlooking the river has temple of  Kanakdurga, the presiding deity of the town.

 From here onwards, Krishna river enters into the coastal Andhra, through coconut groves and sea breezes, Krishna meets the Bay of Bengal branching out in several distributaries. ‘Diviseema’ as the region is known by that name is the delta of Krishna river. Waterways, mangroves, roads and fields are all intermingled in this land of plenty.

 This river, inspiration to the musical notes of ‘संथ वाहते कृष्णामाई (Santh Vahate Krishnamai/ slowly flows the mother Krishna) has ended her 1300 km journey, carving a band of blue green waters from west to east, across the Indian peninsula, a true daughter of the soil, nurturing and giving to the people and empires and spiritually flourishing their life and afterlife…

  

 Edited version published at 

https://www.livehistoryindia.com/story/places/krishna-tracing-the-divine-river

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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