Labels

Valley of Gods

 Serpentine curves of the Jhelum River, as it finds its way through the city of Srinagar, the crowded banks, dotted with wooden houses, chinars and languishing boats are the real appeal of this lifeline of Kashmir valley.

Jhelum does not take birth in high snowy places and unreachable cold heights. Rather it originates in a pool surrounded by humble yet elegant stone arches of Verinag, in south-east of Kashmir. The greenish dark stream of this divine water now starts its northward journey, right through the centuries of settlement and passage of time, she moves in graceful turns as a queen reigning her territory.

The ever-beautiful Kashmir valley, of pines and Devdars, is watered by Jhelum and numerous other streams meeting her on the way ahead. The river, her ancient name being Vitasta, as per Puranic texts, is Uma or Sati herself, is witness to centuries of History and history makers.

Kashmir valley was a home to thriving Sanatan Hindu culture and equally flourishing Buddhist influence till 14th century. The next 500 years saw the advent of Islam in the valley. Political takeover was aided with religious conversion of its people. Last 200 years, we have seen Kashmir under Dogra rulers and an Indian republic with a majority population following Islam.

From the days of neolithic settlements at Burzahom, some 5000 years before today to Mahabharata era King Gonand mentioned in Kalhana’s Rajatarangini, from King Ashok and his son Jallok of Mauryan kingdom to Karkotak and Utpal dynasties, from the Islamic overpowering to the recent days of independent India and further turmoil in valley, water has steadily flown through Vitasta, through to the Wular lake and has forced itself out of Kashmir valley at Baramulla (original name Varahmoola).

(Figure 1: The only Temple with intact Shivling at Naranag temple complex)

The past filled with Rigvedic chants and philosophical discussions of Shaivamat and celebration of the divine presence seems imaginary considering the current environment of Kashmir valley.

But then the banks of this eternal river are dotted with some of the exquisite and magnificent temple sites reliving that distant forgotten past, its glory visible in their still standing pillars.

(Figure 2: Front view of AvantiSwami Temple)


On the right bank of Vitasta is the town of Avantipora, obviously Awantipur in the past. There stands a majestic temple of AvantiSwami. This Vishnu temple is no doubt in ruins today, but it gives an idea of the scale and grandeur of temple construction almost 1200 years before today by mighty king AvantiVarman of Kashmir Janpad. King Avantivarman is founder of Utpal dynasty which ruled the Kashmir valley and beyond, for next 200 years. Awantivarman enhanced the irrigation, controlled the nuisance caused by Damar, the local aristocrats and gathered Punya and goodwill by erecting beautiful temples dedicated to Vishnu and Shiv in the region.

(Figure 3: The majestic pillars of Awantiswami temple)

Entrance of Avantiswami temple inspires awe with erect massive columns forming the arched gateway. This was a large ‘Panchayatan’ temple about 60 meters in length and 50 meters in width, with Vishnu as main deity on the central platform. The carvings are now muted due to floods and winds and rain, the roof has fallen, and the entire premise is open to the sky, as if challenging the Panch-Maha-Bhoot, the elements. There are plinths of four surrounding temples along with the outer premise wall almost intact. The pillar designs in the premise wall are interesting, as are the colonnades of arcaded portico around the temple forming the premise wall. The arch at the entrance in these northern temples is trefoil arch and one of the unique architectural elements found throughout Kashmir. The central mandap is vacant, none of the walls standing now, the ground is covered in ruined carvings and sculptures in abundance. A large chinar tree is standing at a corner with its branches spread over the fallen pieces of once divine architecture, shedding its leaves silently to solace the distraught stone.

(Figure 4: Avantiswami temple -Ruined sculptures)

A little further to the north, along the Vitasta is another temple built by the same benevolent king of ancient Kashmir. This temple is known as Avantishwar and is dedicated to Bhagwan Shiv. This temple and the courtyard, almost of the same size as Avantiswami temple, is in even worse condition. The entrance pillars, grand and erect as seen in most Kashmir temples, are trying to hold on to the trefoil arch, which is no longer there. Inside what we see is a heap of ruins and debris. The temples were destroyed by Islamic forces and also ravaged by natural calamities. As you climb on top of the central mound, under your feet, your eyes see temple pillars, arches, platforms, carvings and whole world of divine, buried in the ground.

(Figure 5: Avantishwar temple)

Alexander Cunningham found these temples in heaps of massive stones in the early 19th century. Thankfully master archaeologist, Daya Rama Sahni, in 1913 worked on this site and the result is what we see. Both the temples, although smaller than the more famous Martand temple, are large enough to impress your mind, and with the gateway rising high in the sky at almost 6 meters, the grey limestone structure weathered beyond mercy, create a lasting image.

Kashmir with its snow peaks, the evergreen pines, the lofty Chinar, many lakes like glittering sapphires, the green meadows interspersed with golden fields of mustard, the meandering, rushing rivers of heavenly sparkling waters, has been a paradise on earth for centuries. This special land surrounded by Himalayan mountains and a valley which is playground to Vitasta and her tributaries was once a massive lake.

Scientists have discovered that soil deposits on mountain slopes and land denote a particular direction and composition, and this is possible when water has forcefully flown from the surface. It is worthwhile to note that land in the valley has a lot of water content and it is very fertile owing to the fact that it was once a lakebed. A huge lake, tilted northward, eventually found an opening at Baramulla on the western wall and drained, also forming Vitasta to carve its course out of the valley. The discovery tells us that this event must have happened 85,000 years before present.

The most surprising and interesting part comes now!

Neelmat Puran, which is revered as Sthal-Puran or location-history of Kashmir by tradition, also narrates the same story. As per the Puranic verses, Satisar was the big lake occupying the Sati-Desh, which is Kashmir valley for as long as 5 Manvantar. Rishi Kashyap drained the lake and Jalodbhav – The water Born Asur dwelling inside and troubling all, was killed. Lake was drained by destroying the mountain wall and creating an opening at Varahmool, one which looks like the mouth of a wild boar, another incarnation of Bhagwan Vishnu. The lake drained, the demon was demolished, and land formed to be inhabited by people and Nag families, supposed to be original inhabitants. There is a reason why we find several place names postfixed with Nag in Kashmir like, Anantnag, Verinag etc.  Also we find several lakes in the valley, such as Wular, Manasbal and Dal Lake, probably remnants of the original mega lake.

(Figure 6: Nagin Lake)

How the Nilmat Puran described an event which might have occurred geologically 85,000 years ago is a great riddle to solve, isn’t it!

So, this land, forever indebted to Rishi Kashyap, had become the fertile ground for various philosophies enriching Indian History. Kashmir Shaivism (a branch of Shaiva traditions and philosophy), advent of Sri Vidya Tantrik texts, along with Buddhist teaching and congregations, made Kashmir the real crown of Sanatan Dharmic legacy. The first millennium of the Common Era saw several kings establishing the temples throughout the valley and beyond.

One such treasure trove is hidden away at Naranag. North of Srinagar, towards the rim of the valley is Harmukh mountain. Ganderbal, must be ancient Gandharva Bal meaning lake for Gandharva is the main town at foothills.

(Figure 7: Approaching Naranag)

Sindh river, the ever turbulent, fast flowing and divinely beautiful, rushing and gushing towards Vitasta to meet for eternity is our companion as we climb the mountains. The pines reaching for the sky, the poplar, apricots and birch crowding on the mountain slope, the river bridge is crossed, the river valley wide in front of us, bright patches of mustard crops interspersed with green fields, small villages tucked in the mountains and spring blossoms with pink and white splashes, dotting the roadside. It was such a beautiful sight, soothing to senses and calming your mind.

The Temple site currently known as Naranag spans over 200 meters near Wangath, the corrupt name of original Vashishth. On this edge of the mountain with Wangath river running through the valley, are two groups of temples. The western one which we visit first, is dedicated to JyeshthRudra, the Elder Rudra and the east group is for Bhuteshwar Mahadev, the lord of all beings.

(Figure 8: Jyeshtha Rudra)

Both are almost in ruins. The western group has an intact main shrine, a magnificent structure almost 6 metres in height, built with gray granite boulders, the typical triangular arch, very representative of Kashmir Architecture and long columns reminding us of their Roman counterparts and a pyramidal top. The main temple is surrounded by four and more smaller ones, which could be a Panchayatan. Only one temple has an intact Shivling, a massive, impressive structure. Just across is a pond filled with emerald Himalayan water, the Jyesthrudra temple and the backdrop of pines on the other side of mountains, is a site to behold!

(Figure 9: Bhuteshwar temple)

Few meters ahead, we come across a huge platform with numerous pillar bases and next to that is another massive ruin of Bhuteshwar temple, the origin of the village name Buthesar as we can imagine. This area was also known as ShodarTeerth. As per Rajatarangini, the historical account of Kashmir, the temples were originally constructed by Jallok, son of King Ashok before the start of the first millennium of CE. Later, Lalitaditya Muktapid, the mighty brave king of Karkotak dynasty in seventh century CE, is attributed to have built this once magnificent display of stone architecture. King Avantivarman of Utpal dynasty also contributed to this important temple cluster in Nineth century CE.

(Figure 10: Bhuteshwar temple – dedicated to Lord Shiva)

Past this temple, one can venture a moderate trek to the confluence of Domail and Marchoi rivers, more like mountain springs. The mountain path takes you through the beautiful landscape of river turns, glacial slabs, high snow clad mountain tops in blue sky, huge boulders in the river bed, awash with splashing water, the shepherds huts , the trees, the spring blossoms, the fresh fragrance of nature all around. The captivating magic of Himalayas is on full display and it is easy to get lost looking at the tall peak of Harmukh and imagining the glittering beauty of Gangabal lake above by just standing on the scenic wooden bridge at the confluence.


Returning back, once again passing the green meadow and scattered ruins of Naranag temple complex, the desolate look of this once mega-temple, makes you sad. Lonely and secluded, devoid of devotees, the weathered walls and pillars yearning for the feel of flowers, the lights of lamps and caring hands, still stand tall.

Nevertheless, the divine Himavat is keeping them company!

References

Email Post
Labels:

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular Posts