Krishna – Tracing the divine
Blazing in the afternoon sun, stood a temple away from the crowd, away from the noise…
The ‘chirebandi’ walls in blocks of age-old deccan basalt in darker black tones, the entrance facing the valley, the central pond of water dappled with sun rays and gusts of wind making rounds through the carved pillars and arches.
The Krishna Mai temple at Mahabaleshwar has all the
ingredients of becoming the temple of mystery. The temple belongs to Shankar as
evident by a Shivlinga inside, but then why is it named after Krishna river?
Probably because, just a stone’s throw away stands another
beautiful ancient temple in this sacred mountain top called ‘Kshetra
Mahabaleshwar’ in Sahyadri ranges near Satara in Maharashtra . This temple is abode of origin to not one but
for five rivers. Standing at a height of 1353 meters from sea level, this
sacred place has been buzzing with pilgrims for last 800 years at least, much
before Mahabaleshwar became the much coveted hill station.
Krishna, Venna, Koyana are the daughters of Sahyadri which
flow down its eastern slope to flourish the lives of many in the mainland till
they reach the blue expanse of Bay of Bengal. Savitri and Gayatri are the
younger ones, choosing to flow on the western slope, taking a shortcut to meet
the Arabian Sea as early as possible flowing rapidly through the narrow green
strip of Konkan.
Wai – The Southern Kashi
Krishna, like elder sister navigates the treacherous mountain cliffs of Sahyadri patiently and reaches the adorning stone steps and ornate temples at Wai, waiting to welcome her. There are many cities and towns in rest of India who like to be labelled as ‘Dakshin Kashi’ highlighting their religious importance and boast a skyline decorated with multiple ‘shikhar’, Wai is also one of them.
Wai has a famous Dholya Ganpati or MahaGanpati temple (the big Ganesh). Floodwaters of Krishna sometimes reach the belly of this huge Ganesh idol. Opposite to the Ganesh temple is a calm temple of Kashi-Vishweshar, complete with Deepmal (stone structure for lighting multiple lamps) and a granite Nandi.
This was the playground of King Shivaji in the game of warfare, where he defeated the Adilshahi army and its commander Afzal Khan in ‘Ganimi Kava’. ‘Ganimi Kava’ is the method of combat developed by this pioneer of Hindu Swarajya, where small troops would penetrate enemy grounds and destroy as much as possible in quick turnaround, taking advantage of unpreparedness of enemy.
Past Wai, river Krishna meanders through open spaces between
offshoots of Sahyadri, carving its own valley, nourishing entire western
Maharashtra, soaking the black soil and growing the green gold of sugarcane.
Several sacred confluences and crowded stone steps touching
the waters, so many temple spires, gleaming in sunny summers! As Krishna starts
her journey southwards, so many of her lost sisters come to meet her. Venna
meets her at Sangam Mahuli, Koyana meets at Karad , the confluence is popularly
known as Preeti Sangam , a confluence of love.
Varana and Panchganga merge with her near Sangali and Kolhapur before
Krishna crosses the threshold of Maharashtra, her first home. Temple of
Koteshwar at Gove and then Maratha era dome like pinnacles of Sangam Mahuli
temples along with several other known and unknown abodes of Shiva, are part of
this journey.
On one of the curvier turns rests the famous pilgrimage
place of Narasimha Wadi. This is
an important place of worship for Datta sampradaya. Dutta sect is followed by
worshippers of Dutta and his several human reincarnations over last few
centuries. This place earlier known as Panch-Sagar due to confluence with
Panchganga is blessed because the great Yogi, Narasimha Saraswati during the
Chaturmas, has stayed here for all four months, and hence the name Narasimha
wadi. This is also a place of goddess ‘Varahi’ and it one of the 64 shakti
peeth across India .
Presence of Varahi Shakti, Amareshwar temple on the other
bank of the river and chosen place of stay for Narasimha Saraswati and Tembe
Swami, another revered Yogi from Datta worship sect are not mere coincidences.
Nath and Dutt sects have close connections with Shakti worship, Yogini and
their powers, and so does this place !
Every rainy season, Krishna river comes to meet the Dutta
Paduka inside the temple, the whole ‘Ghat’ is awash, the river swollen, the
blue mountain ranges at distance, fading in raindrops.. Narasimha wadi remains
a magnet for people who come there at least once in a lifetime.
Kudalsangam is one such important confluence where Basavanna,
the founder of Lingayat sect ended his life journey. some 800 years back.
Lingayats believe that Shiv is supreme, and they carry a shivlinga around their
neck in their devotion. The Sangameshwar temple stands on the confluence of
Krishna and Malaprabha commanding over this land of Veershaiv.
This is also the ancient Chalukya territory studded with
beautiful temples of Badami, Mahakoot, Aihole and Pattadkal. Krishna flowing through Bagalkot district
nourishes a land where Jains worship Teerthankars and Lingayats bow down to
Veerbhadra.
Ahead meets Bhima bringing in abundance, waters of central
Maharashtra, and lingering memories of Vitthal chants from Pandharpur.
Downstream, Krishna moves with caution through a rocky terrain
with a history of millennia.
One can find several megalithic burials on the banks of
Krishna in this stretch. Megalithic culture is the archaeological term for
finds which are dated to 1000 BC. These finds are mostly burials, marked with
different types of stone settings. Sometimes there are stones buried in a
circle, sometimes a single stone slab atop couple of boulders, sometimes there
is a single large stone piece protruding from the ground to mark the burials
beneath. Archaeologists have discovered skeletons of people with iron artefacts
such as utensils, swords etc and yes, sometimes horses too are buried along in
these fascinating sites.
Krishna riverbed in Telangana is spanned across rocky
grounds, with huge boulders jutting out sometimes from the smooth waters. In
this whole patch from Malaprabha confluence to Tungabhadra confluence, the
river has at times branched out its stream and joined back again after a distance
thus creating islands. Jaldurga, a strategically located fort, stands on the
rocky edge of one such island providing fantastic views of river Krishna and
valley of giant rocks.
Next such island is Kuravpur, one of the most
celebrated ‘Teerth’ of Dutt Sampraday. This is supposed to be ‘Tapobhumi’ and
‘Karmabhumi’ of Shripad Vallabh, one of the first incarnation of Shri Dutta.
Entrance to this sacred island is by crossing the river. There are few more
such islands like Nargadde, Kurugadde, each of them now a temple town, housing
the deity.
The Jogulamba temple is one of the ‘Shakti-peeth’, where
Sati’s upper teeth fell on the ground during the divine Tandav by her
distraught husband Shiv on the demise of his beloved wife. Navabrahma temple is
a cluster of 9 temples dedicated to Brahmadev. Built as early as 700 AD, these
fine pieces of Chalukyan architecture reflect distinct ‘Nagar’ style of temple
building with its high rise shikhar and sculpted walls. Papanasi Temple is
another temple cluster in the vicinity with 20+ temples in the premise.
Meeting with Tungbhadra bringing along stories of mighty Vijayanagar empire, prepares Krishna River to take a plunge in the dense forest of Nallamala.
Nallamala mountain range is age old reserve of forest beauty crowned with presence of mighty tigers. This forest also became home to forts and cities settled by ancient kings. A thin reference in Gazette points to a ruined city by Chandragupta Maurya in these mountains. Pratap Rudra, the Kakatiya king is also attributed to some forts overlooking Krishna river in this enchanted land. The mountain ranges are home to several rock shelters and caves which further developed into temples and places of worship. Ancient Indian mind would find presence of divine in all such places of natural magic. Same is true with Akka Maahdevi and other such cave temples, where the devotees venture to find the divine within the stone walls and near a stream of water, adorning it with flower petals and a flickering but strong flame of devotion.
Amaravathi – Paradise Lost
Out from the loving embrace of Nallmala, Krishna river
embarks on a northward path, creating a huge reservoir of Nagarjun Sagar and
getting the waters of Dindi and later Musi. The river swells ahead, till it
reaches Amaravathi.
On the southern bank of Krishna river stands ‘Dharanikota’,
known as ‘Dhanyakakat’ in ancient times. Also knows as ‘Amaravathi’ of Satvahan era, this town has
been in existence for at least 2000
years as evident from inscriptions and monuments found in the area. This was a buzzing place in mighty Satvahan
empire, which spanned from Maharashtra till the eastern seaboard and ruled for
300-500 years. A huge Buddhist stupa with elaborate carvings in marble stood at
this place. But the passage of time pulled a blanket of dust and oblivion on
the great heritage of the place, only to be discovered in British era. Most of
the sculptures now reside in British museum in Amaravathi gallery.
But now, rekindling its past glory, this ancient place of
Buddhist worship, dotted with Stupa and Vihara is now designated to be the
capital of Andhra Pradesh.
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